Good Food, Good Times at Vesuvio's

It’s the early 1970s. Cars, music blaring and loaded with St. Michael’s College School boys, pull up in front of Vesuvio’s Pizzeria & Spaghetti House at 3010 Dundas St. W. in the Junction.

Paul Ronan’s prized 1961 Chevy Impala convertible, with white body and cherry-red interior, draws appreciative glances from passersby as he pulls up to the curb.

The 1970s: A teenage rite of passage

After school football and hockey games, Paul and the boys often stop here for takeout pizza by the slice, but on Friday “date nights” they are accompanied by girls from the Loretto Abbey and St. Joseph Wellesley schools, so they opt for the large, dimly lit dining room.

They arrive early in order to secure parking spots outside and seating inside, as Vesuvio’s, in business since 1957, is a popular neighbourhood destination.

A group of up to 30 long-haired boys in jeans and T-shirts and long-haired girls in miniskirts gather in front of the restaurant waiting for their table to be ready. As the Junction, and therefore Vesuvio’s, is “dry,” Paul and his friends covertly consume bottled beer and mickeys of rye while waiting for their table.

They hang out on the sidewalk, sitting or leaning on their cars, chatting, flirting, showing off and burning off teenage energy because once inside, you have to behave and be respectful. Vesuvio’s, family-owned and operated, hosts many families, christenings, birthdays and other special events, and the staff are strict. If you misbehave, you are out on your ear.

After the group is seated, Paul orders pepperoni pizza and a Coke. Some of the others opt for spaghetti or lasagna — no garlic bread if they are hoping for a kiss later. The big joke is who, if anyone, will order anchovies on their pizza. (Only the true Italians do.) Good food, good times, and Paul has memories to last a lifetime.

The early 2000s: A family favourite

It’s the early 2000s. Rebecca Holtzman moves to the Junction neighbourhood of Toronto. She soon discovers the legendary pizza spot called Vesuvio – at some point, the pizzeria had dropped the apostophe and the “s.” Vesuvio becomes Rebecca’s “go-to” restaurant because it’s family-friendly, has good food that is reasonably priced and, although not fancy, is more upscale than other well-known pizza places.

It has a takeout section, a nice bar and plenty of seating in the restaurant area. Rebecca and her family get takeout sometimes and dine in on special occasions. The kids choose Vesuvio for their birthday celebrations, when they sit in their favourite circular booth and the staff bring cake with a candle and sing “Happy Birthday” to them.

The kids like the cheese pizza, spaghetti with meatballs and tortellini rose, while their parents enjoy pepperoni pizza, fettuccine Alfredo, or veal.

Spring of 2020: Closing time

In spring 2020, Rebecca and her family are heartbroken to learn that Vesuvio will be shutting its doors for good because of founder Ettore Pugliese’s failing health and the uncertainty surrounding the COVID-19 pandemic.

Rebecca’s daughters break down in tears at the news. They are not alone; there is an outpouring of shock and grief in the community. Vesuvio, a mainstay in the neighbourhood for 63 years, is closing.

In the lead up to the closing, staff at Vesuvio are working nonstop, overwhelmed with orders and too busy even to answer the phone.

Rebecca wants to pay her respects and get one last meal from Vesuvio on closing day, April 19. She is not alone.

The socially distanced queue stretches from Vesuvio’s door along Dundas Street West., Pacific Avenue, Vine Avenue and over to McMurray Avenue. It takes more than three hours standing in line in the cold for Rebecca to reach the front and place her order, and another 30 minutes for it to be ready.

Is it worth it? Absolutely. Good food, good times, and Rebecca has memories to last a lifetime.